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Decorative Arts Design

By Yedida Kalfon Stillman

This richly illustrated quantity is a historic and ethnographic research of 1 very important element of Arab and Islamic fabric tradition - garments. whereas partially descriptive, its relevant concentration is at the evolution and variations of modes of gown during the last 1400 years in the course of the center East, North Africa, and for the center a long time, Islamic Spain. Arab garments is taken care of as a part of an Islamic vestimentary process and is mentioned in the context of the social, non secular, esthetic, and political tendencies of every age.In addition to the 5 historic chapters, 3 chapters are dedicated to significant issues of Arab dress background - the gown code for non-Muslims, the $64000 socio-economic and political establishment of luxurious materials and clothes of honor, and the main famous and often misunderstood establishment of veiling.

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Extra resources for Arab dress: a short history : from the dawn of Islam to modern times

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These include the thawb which in addition to being a long- or short-sleeved gown was also a general word for garment (the plurals thiy§b and athw§b designate clothes in general) and fabric, since many garments were no more than a piece of cloth (shiqqa). Also worn over the qamÊß were the jubba, a woollen tunic with rather narrow sleeves which was imported in the Prophet’s time from Syria and perhaps elsewhere in the Byzantine Empire;15 the Èulla, a long, flowing coat which the Prophet wore tucked up when he went out and of which he is reported to have worn on occasion a red one of great beauty;16 the qab§", a luxurious, sleeved robe, slit in front, with buttons (muzarrar), made of fabrics such as brocade (dÊb§j), and apparently of Persian provenance;17 the farråj, a robe similar to the qab§", but slit in the back.

L. A. Mayer Memorial Institute for Islamic Art: Jerusalem, 1980), passim. 67 al-Bukh§rÊ, ‘aÈÊÈ, Kit§b al-Lib§s, b§bs 90 and 93; Ibn \anbal, Musnad VI, p. 172. , 92. 26 chapter one embroidered figures just as they had no objection to silk, brocade, and other luxury fabrics. As already noted, many of the garments worn in early Islamic times were the same for both men and women, especially tunics and wraps. There were, nonetheless, distinct stylistic differences. Islam, like Judaism and Christianity, strictly condemns transvestitism.

29. 8 chapter one Those Arabs who lived within the cultural sphere of one or another of the great empires could not help but be influenced by the fashions of the higher civilizations, clothing being a manifestation of culture, no less than art, architecture, and literature. Thus we find statues of the Arab rulers of Hatra in Mesopotamia which depict them wearing Parthian-style dress. 5 This Hellenistic mode of dress, though considerably more refined, belonged to the same broader vestimentary system as did the traditional clothing of the Arabs in the Arabian Peninsula.

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